Abstract:
Nearshore bathymetry is key to most oceanographic studies and coastal engineering works. This work proposes a new methodology to assess nearshore wave celerity and infer bathymetry from video images. Shoaling and breaking wave patterns were detected on the Timestacks distinctly, and wave celerity was estimated from wave trajectories. The wave type separation enabled the implementation of specific domain formulations for depth inversion: linear for shoaling and non-linear for breaking waves. The technique was validated over a rocky bottom using video acquisition of an online streaming webcam for a period of two days, with significant wave heights varying between 1.7 m and 3.5 m. The results were corroborated in comparison to ground-truth data available up to a depth of 10 m, yielding a mean bias of 0.05 m and a mean root mean square error (RMSE) of 0.43 m. In particular, RMSE was lower than 15% in the outer surf zone, where breaking processes occur. Overall, the depth-normalized RMSE was always lower than 20%, with the major inaccuracy due to some local depressions, which were not resolved. The developed technique can be readily applied to images collected by coastal monitoring stations worldwide and is applicable to drone video acquisitions.
