Influence of coastal structures in velocity fields and wave height

Abstract

The behaviour of a coastal structure depends on the nearshore hydrodynamics which is dependent from waves and their interaction with the structure. The knowledge of the wave transformation and breaking characteristics close to coastal structures becomes crucial for understanding the physical processes that are involved and to the design of those coastal structures. Physical models and laboratory experiments are important tools for a better knowledge and characterization of these phenomena. In this work, wave flume tests were performed to analyse the wave hydrodynamics in the vicinity of a structure, constructed with a typical slope of a rubble-mound breakwater. We measured the free surface elevation and velocities by means of resistive probes and Acoustic Doppler Velocimetry. The results enable the identification of complex phenomena in velocity field and several changes in the velocity field and wave height caused by set-up, reflexion and wave breaking due to the presence of the structure. The increase of three-dimensional effects in the vicinity of the structure was also verified. The reliable experimental data could be used to numerical models data validation.