Waves, wind and tidal forcing on a sandpit morphodynamics

Abstract

Due to the increasing demand of sand for construction and beach nourishment, offshore extraction is being considered as an alternative source. Long term morphological changes caused by such an extraction must be predicted because they can affect the sediments budget and potentially promote coastal erosion. Numerical models are powerful tools that can help in the evaluation of environmental impacts induced by this activity. The objective of this study is to describe the morphodynamics in the area surrounding a sandpit through the use of the MORSYS2D modelling system. The sandpit under study is located offshore Vale do Lobo, an important beach and golf resort located on the Southern Portuguese coast. The numerical solutions of the mean flow and the wave height around the pit were obtained with MORSYS2D between March 28 and April 29, 2008 when two storm events with significant wave height (Hs) greater than 2.5 m occurred. The numerical results are analysed in terms of the sand fluxes and bathymetry changes induced by wind and tidal currents and wave orbital velocities. The results show the strong impact of storm events in the morphologic evolution of the pit and surrounding area. The value for Hs > 2.5m was also confirmed as determinant for the sediment dynamics.